There are some challenges. You can remove the mask before curing the second coat and thus reduce the roughness at the parting line. However, there is a risk of having a little dry powder drift onto the first coat or messing up the line when you remove the mask. If you have a very clean line in the design of the part you can use it to separate the two coats like a sharp crease in the wheel ; it will be easier to separate the two colors.
Regardless of what masking material you use or whether you remove the mask prior to cure or after, I would recommend some trials to perfect the process before you do it on your wheels. With some trial to develop your technique you should be able to pull it off. Re: How do you powder coat two different colors with a nice sharp edge.
Originally posted by Harleydad View Post. Re: How do you powder coat two different colors with a nice sharp edge Shoot the letter color first and bake. Mask the letters using high temp tape then shoot the background color. Bake just long enough to set the background color so you don't knock it off , cool then remove the tape. Return it to the oven and complete the bake. This is reverse of how the plate was painted but it's easier to use the width of the tape as the letters than trying to mask the background.
Originally posted by CarWiz View Post. Shoot the letter color first and bake. Re: How do you powder coat two different colors with a nice sharp edge I'm not sure what what you mean.
Hi Sean. I am just starting out and this site has been a huge help. My question is about powder coating in an emblem. From what I understand I would powder coat the entire project and do a partial cure then put the sticker on and powder coat the project a different color.
Then put it back in the oven until the project reaches degrees then pull the sticker off and continue a full cure. Am I understanding correctly or is there a better way to do it?
Also does any sticker work or does it have to be a certain material? Thank you for you time and I look forward to hearing from you. I am pretty new to powder coating. Your site is very well organized and very detailed. I am learning as I go, but you definitely answered all of my questions and clarified a lot of things for me, speeding up my learning process.
I'm currently powder coating my motorcycle engine block dealing with lots of Faraday areas and porous cast iron. I didn't know about the outgassing step.
Now I know! Didn't work. Thanks for all the tips Sean! I might have some more questions for you soon. Usually I only do one powder coating but now that I know you can fade two different colors into each other I want to do that. I'm thinking it would be cool to fade from blue into red.
This is going to make my bike paint job so much cooler now, thanks. My question is I'm powder coating a gas tank for a motorcycle, flat black is the base and it is going to have gloss flames, after taping it off and cutting out my flames , what is a good procedure for cleaning off the part that is gonna be gloss, it should probably be cleaned prior to powder coating second coat.
If I am doing multi-coats, I like to keep the part completely clean between coats. After it leaves the oven, I only handle it with gloves and I clean all of my masking tools scalpel, scissors, etc. This is an easy way to avoid any issues from cleaning the part. However, sometimes cleaning is necessary, and the best thing to clean the part with is denatured alcohol. This is usually sold at home improvement stores in the cleaning section.
After cleaning with denatured alcohol, I stick the part back in the oven at degrees F for about 5 minutes to ensure that the alcohol is completely dried and to neutralize any static electricity that may have been induced by cleaning or blowing off the part.
Then I let it cool and it is ready for the next coat. The reason for asking is its a flat back base , I cured it , taped off and than cut out my flame design being very careful, but the tape for the design that I removed for flames would probably leave some type of residue on tank , I took great care when using the powder coat tape, which is my first time using but works very well and is actually pretty easy to use.
Originally I was just gonna use some light soap and water than rinse with plain water , dry off place in oven for couple minutes , remove than powder than cute. Was just making sure the denatured alcohol will not bother the base coat powder.. Hi Sean, Great info here! I'm super new to powder coating and this site has helped tremendously. I am planning on powder coating some brembo brakes for my car, and have chosen a base coat and a translucent top coat.
My friend has the powder coating gun and oven, and isn't new to it, but has never dealt with two coats. His gun does not have adjustable KV's, and as I've read you do not recommend applying the second coat hot if you're a novice. Is there any other ways around this that i'll still be able to apply my base coat and translucent coat?
Thanks, I'm glad the info was helpful. As for powder coating the calipers, the best advice I can give is just to follow the info from this article. Shoot the first coat, bake them if first coat is a chrome type powder, do a full cure, if not do a partial cure , let them cool, for best results, remove all masking and re-mask, ensure the ground has a path to bare metal still and then shoot them with the top coat and do a full cure. Luckily most calipers are pretty smooth and don't have too many recesses so you shouldn't run into to many faraday cage areas.
I have shot plenty of multi-coats with a non adjustable KV gun and it is definitely do-able. Make sure to keep the calipers completely clean and untouched by bare fingers between coats. Let me know if you have any more questions before you start.
I'll let you know how it goes. I'm planning on shooting the base coat with prismatic powders roman gold, with the transparent copper top coat. I have new black brembo decals that I wanted to put on in between coats. It's hard to say without ever having used that powder myself. The decal will definitely be visible through the transparent copper but I don't know that it will be pure black. You can do a test on some scrap metal using the roman gold, any kind of black decal and top coat it with the transparent copper.
If that doesn't work out the way you want it, you'll save yourself a bunch of work with the calipers and instead, you can place the decal on top of the transparent copper and then do a coat of clear. If it comes to a third coat the clear , you will be fighting with powder attraction to the part using a hobby level gun.
This is a circumstance where it would be necessary to heat up the part a little bit. Nothing too hot, but degrees should be adequate. I sort of thought it wouldn't show up solid black, and I kind of like that idea, but I think i'll try what you've suggested before actually shooting the calipers. Thanks again! Their representative doesn't think that the second coat will adhere to the caliper after the first coat is applied. He said the only way he thinks I can get around this is to shoot the parts hot which neither my friend or I have experience doing.
I was planning on using the mounting bolts as my ground source for each pass, as I figured this would be the strongest direct connection to a bare surface of each caliper. I have done lots of 2nd coats with the Craftsman gun and a grounding rod. It isn't the fastest or easiest thing in the world, but it is doable. I also prefer to ground to a bolt when possible. It has the benefit of leaving no hook marks and no matter how many coats you do, it is still grounded to clean bare metal.
After you get your first coat on, just start out with coating the most recessed areas first. The less you press it, the less air pressure it puts out and sometimes the less pressure allows you to coat the faraday areas easier.
IF I am having trouble coating an area, I maintain at least 6 inch distance from the gun to the part, press the trigger about halfway and just hold it aimed at the area where the powder is not sticking and it will slowly fill in. Following this advice, you should be good to go. Thanks so much for the tips Sean. I'll give it a try and let you know how it goes!
Hey, we sprayed a chrome base and let the chrome fully cure Then we tried to do another coat of a diff color on top of the chrome a day later and the powder wouldn't stay covered in a few spots, it would fish eye or leave a small crater about 2mm circle in small areas here and there Do you know what could be the reason for this?
I too am having this trouble can anyone give us some pointers on this? I'm in the powder coating business and I found your name while looking for the best way to dispose of unused powder. I just want to be sure we are up to date with the latest methods. Thank you for your help. Hi Diane, Here's what I think - I owned and operated a powder coating manufacturing company in Columbus, Ohio, for a few years.
Occasionally we would generate a small amount of unusable powder. We would simply double-bag it, place the bag in a heavy box or drum and toss it into the dumpster destined for the landfill. Here are a few very important recommendations however: 1. Consult the safety data sheet SDS provided by your powder supplier to ascertain this. Even better, personally contact your supplier to ensure there are no toxic materials present. Secure the powder in a container that is durable enough to withstand the pick-up, transport and delivery into the land-fill.
Most waste haulers are concerned when a package breaks, creating a dusty plume. Before you do anything, contact your waste hauler. It is their job to know the local and national regulations concerning the acceptability of waste product disposal. Local laws vary, so my experience in Columbus, Ohio, may not apply to your location. If your powder contains toxic materials you should follow the guidelines for disposal per the SDS provided by your powder supplier.
This may involve contracting a hazardous waste handler and the high costs associated with using one. Other jurisdictions certainly have their own regulations as well. The vast majority of powder coatings are nontoxic and safe to dispose in a landfill.
But before doing anything, be prudent and confirm this with your local authorities. Hopefully your costs and efforts will be minimal. Best Regards, Joe. This website requires certain cookies to work and uses other cookies to help you have the best experience. By visiting this website, certain cookies have already been set, which you may delete and block.
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